July marks the beginning of pie season for me. For as long as I can remember this is the season when berries and cherries have to be picked and processed for baking. Certainly pies can be made anytime, since ready made crusts and canned pie fillings are always available in the grocery stores, but in my opinion for a truly fresh, once-a-year, mouth-watering, dessert experience, berry pies should be made, just shortly after berry picking. This tradition began for me when I was a little girl. Each summer – in late June or early July, my brothers and I were invited to spend a week with my grandmother and grandfather Johnson at their little bungalow on Wildwood Drive in Ottumwa, Iowa. While the house was small, the yard was huge and I always marveled at how my grandparents gardened what seemed like an acre behind their home. Spring and summer time for them was dedicated to planting, growing, and putting away food for the year. An old habit, perhaps from their own childhoods. They retained a depression-era perspective on storing up for hard times, to the point that their basement contained a special room featuring floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with home-canned fruits, vegetables, sauces, jellies, relishes and God knows what else. So dedicated were they to this practice and a belief that they would perish without this food that they were able to calculate precisely how many plants were needed to produce enough for their family to enjoy all year. Grandma could tell you exactly how many green bean seeds to plant in order to have enough green beans canned for family meals through one year! And quite honestly there was nothing quite as wonderful as eating all that homegrown food at one of their Thanksgiving dinners. There was a pride and satisfaction in that food ,from having grown it all themselves, that made each dish taste all the better.
There was a division of labor in all of this effort. Grandma planned and helped plant and weed and cooked and canned. Grandpa did all the digging and planting, the majority of weeding and harvesting. I can still see my "Papa" as we called him, wearing his striped overalls (shirtless), a straw hat and hoeing the garden with sweat dripping off the end of his nose. And there was grandma in her little floral cotton dress and apron... white cotton anklets, tightly curled hair, running back and forth between kitchen and garden at a speed Superman would admire.
My brothers and I were each assigned a tree to pick. I still remember, as though it were yesterday, climbing into "my" cherry tree and being surrounded by the million bright red balls that I plucked as fast as I could. Sometimes I tried to count how many I’d pick and my brothers and I would try to see who could pick the fastest. In the end it was silly for we were all three expected to pick our trees clean. Whether we did it slowly or fast mattered not, the work had to be done.
Once the trees were picked we helped Grandma wash and pit the cherries. This task went surprisingly fast since she had an antique cherry pitting tool. We poured cherries into the spout of this gizmo as she cranked a handle and miraculously each cherry was split and pitted. Following this we were encouraged to go play as she made fresh pies for dinner. I wish now that I’d lingered in her kitchen, to learn how she baked those wonderful pies. She really had a talent for making show-quality pies, beautifully glazed and artfully decorated.
Years later when I moved to my own country home, I was thrilled to discover cherry and apple trees on the property. My grandparents had all passed on and I found myself longing to do my own gardening and pie-making. All those childhood experiences came back to me and it was as if my grandparents were at my side guiding me through the process. I was good at cherry picking, but the pie-baking skills I was lacking in. I decided the best way to learn that was to practice. I announced to my work colleagues that if anyone was interested in being my guinea pig, to bring me an empty pie plate and I would return it to them with a pie in it. I figured after making 3 or 4 pies I would have crust-making nailed. I also didn’t expect there to be wide spread interest in my invitation. To my surprise, every day for the next couple of weeks, I would come to work and find empty pie plates, with names taped on the bottom of the pans, sitting in front of my office door. Funnier still was the fact that work mates didn’t bring just one pie plate. Some brought 2 and 3! And some of the gentlemen asked if they could keep bringing me pie plates after their pie was gone. I had created monsters! Over the course of 2 weeks I think I made about 2 dozen pies and had tried several different pie crust recipes. In that short but harried time I gained a confidence in pie-making and speed in whipping them together. Mission accomplished.
So here it is again, July...pie time. My week has been spent picking and pitting cherries. On July 4th my husband and I enjoyed the first pie of the season. We sat in silence as we ate it, savoring it’s magic. "Just once a year?"... my husband said. "Yup" I replied. That’s what makes it all so special.
Recipe for My Mom’s Pie Dough:
2 cups + 4 table spoons of all purpose flour
2/3 cup of vegetable oil
4 tablespoons of cold water
1 teaspoon of salt.
Form dough into a round patty and roll out between sheets of waxed paper.




